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Whenever curating a list of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred establishments. But, tucked prominently among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a far-flung part of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. The recognition has made the owners totally astonished.

“I’m totally shocked,” states a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble shop achieving such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has retained much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary achievement.